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Day 3 of my trip to Cape Scott in 2015.
It’s decision day. My quads and calfs are tired and feet are blistered. My hiking speed is… slow. The plan is to hike to Nissan Bight and then down to San Josef the next day. Do I hike with the rest of the group and then 22 km down to San Josef Bay? Or do I break it up and hike to Eric Lake, a 15km hike, leaving the last 7 for the day after? That would leave an easy 3km hike out to the parking lot the last day.
I wanted to stay with the group but my feet were saying hike to Eric Lake. I didn’t want to do any solo hiking but there were many people on the trail. My feet would be much happier splitting the distance up. The group wouldn’t have to wait for my slow pace all day. But splitting the group up, what if something happened?
What to do?
I decided to do the solo hike to Eric Lake. A solo mission with lots of people on the trail and the rest of the group coming through the day after if anything went wrong. Done. Let’s do it.
* One thing with some of the photos below is they point north along the trail instead of south, the direction I was travelling. Some of photos were for a slideshow of photos showing the route from the parking lot to Nels and then the lighthouse. I turned around to take them facing north.Yup, wierd, I know. They still show what the trail is like at that point.
Get comfortable. Here’s the rest of the story from Day 3 of the Cape Scott Trail.
We should have waited to go up to the lighthouse. Today would have been beautiful for it. I’ve got a long hike ahead of me. Better get moving.
Tough choice to leave the group and head for San Josef instead of seeing Nissan Bight. One part of me, the explorer, my logical mind, wanted to see Nissan. To leave a place with a beautiful beach unseen, tore at that part of me. The other half, my legs and my feet, were telling me the smart decision would be to break up the hike, give those legs a break. I would be staying at a different campsite we hadn’t stayed at yet. Get some solo time in. Ok, feet. You win.
A few floats at the entrance to Nels Bight.
All sorts of things coming washing up on the beaches this far north. There’s not much to stop the bits and pieces coming from Japan to the island. Only the lucky folks find anything good and I’m sure it’s whisked away to someones treasure chest. The boring leftovers are hung up on trees.
Out onto the plains of Hansen Lagoon.
The trail to the first dyke. Still one of the most unique places I’ve seen hiking. It was a confusing place to be. Popping out of thick forest onto grassy meadow a kilometre wide was not in my hiking plan but there it was and it was beautiful.
You can still see the old fence posts heading out to the dyke in the photo below. The posts lead out to Hansen Lagoon and the first dyke. The settlers added to dykes to Hansen Lagoon, the first completed in 1899 and the second in 1905. On our way in, we were eager to the beach and didn’t venture out to see the lagoon. Here, on my way out, I wanted to keep moving. Long day ahead.
Remnants of one of the settlements. A sign in the top left corner talks about the Cape Scott Community Hall.
The sign says:
The Cape Scott Community Hall
With the arrival of the second wave of settlers, the community centre shifted from Fishermen Bay to the Hansen Lagoon area. The government, in response, reserved a plot of 40 hectares (100 acres) at this site for public purposes, and in 1910, a community hall with a classroom was built. During peak peak population years, 25-30 students of all nationalities attended school here.
Due to Cape Scott’s isolation, settlers developed a strong community spirit demonstrated by night-long dances, annual fairs, lively parties and general meetings held at this hall. The picture on the right shows the Cape’s first Agricultural Fair attended by over 200 people in 1914. Today, a moss-covered mound of rotting planks is all that remains of this structure.
To those who settled here, Cape Scott was something special. Though they had so little, they had so much!
A Building of Unknown Identity
The identity of the crumpled building between the Community Hall and the Hansen Lagoon road is not known. It is thought to be the relay station used by the Royal Canadian Air Force during World War II to boost telegraph signals from the radar station at Cape Scott to the air base at Coal Harbour.
The Spencer Farm
One the north side of the Lagoon road are remnants of the Spencer farm. Alfred Spencer arrived at Cape Scott in 1912 with the second wave of colonists and settled into the abandoned King farm. He remained at Cape Scott until 1956, one of the very last settlers. His home, pictured on the right, stood in relatively good shape until 1969. It was then burned to the ground by a thoughtless visitor.
All that’s left of the old Cape Scott Community Hall.
Boardwalks through the bog.
Back into the forest.
Parts of the old telegraph line ran into the area in 1913.
Eric Lake. 15km done. Done for the day right? Well…
I had planned to stop and pick up some water at Eric Lake. Just out of the photo below to the right a couple were having their quiet romantic swim so I didn’t want to stay long. There was another entrance to the lake at the south end. There being some sort of dock there. I’ll head to the south end grab some water there, see what the dock looks like. We hadn’t checked it out on the way in.
The southern entrance to Eric Lake. Looks great from up the trail. When you get down to the water it’s a mud pit. All the goo that gets blown down Eric Lake by the wind ends up here. You’d have to wade out 10 metres to get fresh clear water. And that dock I had read about? It’s the rotted remnants of a shipping dock they would float supplies up the lake from. All that was left was a couple of pilings and some rotted wood half under water. Not a real dock.
I had a break but didn’t get any water. I was almost out of water at this point. Decision time.
I could head 1.5km back up to the north entrance to Eric and get some water and probably spend the night there in a buggy forest campsite. Or I could continue down to San Josef Bay from here, another 5km. Only 5km. That wasn’t the plan but it was so close. A few more hours trudging along and I’d be at the white sands of San Josef Bay with rivers of fresh water coming down onto the beach.
That sounds great. Let’s do it.
The trail to Cape Scott isn’t especially technical but it’s not easy. There are so many little rocks and logs and things to trip over. It makes for a tiring hike.
The marker! This is the fork to turn off to the parking lot or turn south to San Josef Bay. Less than 2k from here to San Josef Bay (I had to hike farther to get water which made it about 3k).
Easy hiking now.
My goal at last.My feet were screaming at me but just a little further I’d be able to get some water and lay this pack down for an entire day. I was already looking forward to the next day of relaxing on the beach, pina coladas and working on my sun tan.
Part of my work with the Vancouver Island Spine Trail Association is to check on sections of the trail.
I’ve been working my way through the Tuck Lake section. Take a look at the VI Spine Trail map to see the route. The Tuck Lake section is west of Cowichan Lake and south of Port Alberni. One of the lakes the trail passes by is Tuck Lake, hence the name. It also passes by Francis and Darlington which are beautiful.
This trip report is from a recent trip to hike the section from Nitinat River west to Tuck Lake and report back on it’s condition.
This section is about 11km out and back. I hiked from the road just west of Nitinat River to the stream just east of Nadira Main. The maze of logging roads in the area can get you just about anywhere along the trail.
A few trees down on the trail.
Nothing better than fields of ferns. I never get tired looking at these views.
Any marked portion of the Spine Trail has these orange markers along the route.
One of the obstacles to creating a trail the entire length of Vancouver Island: logging. We’re running through working forest and have to reroute trail sometimes.
Some trail junctions have green and white Spine Trail signs near them. This one is just before the right hand turn off this deactivated logging road.
If you hit this stream bed you’ve gone too far. The trail on the other sign was strongly calling to be explored. I will be back.
I spy the Spine Trail sign.
Can you see it?
This was the end of my hike for the day. The trail continues on the up the other bank of this ravine to the Nadira Main logging road and west to Francis Lake from there. Another day. In the mean time this was a beautiful place to stop for lunch.
Tuck Lake from on the ridge after climbing back out of the valley.
Day 2 of my Cape Scott hiking trip in 2015.
**Hiking to Guise Bay
The morning started out completely fogged in. We couldn’t see much. Oh well. Let’s go to the lighthouse anyways. It might clear up when we get there.
The weather was warm and dry. I wasn’t complaining. A wet day dampens the spirits.
The forest is so lush.
We followed the path in from the beach along the old log roads.
We were much lighter today, only carrying the food and water that we needed to do the 12km return trip from Nels Bight to the lighthouse. Sore, tired legs from the 20 km the day before made for slow going but we didn’t have to deal with full packs.
The ground wasn’t flat. Duh. Hiking trails aren’t sidewalks but I assumed with the lack of elevation around Cape Scott that it would be easy hiking. Even though where wasn’t much elevation gain, the old boardwalk was full of holes, missing chunks here and there. Some of it was just dirt, wormed with roots, between a patchwork of old boards.
Aside from the old road boards in the dirt, this could be anywhere on Vancouver Island, packed with green ferns and salal. I caught my mind wandering thinking I had seen it before. Obviously not. This was my first trip to Cape Scott.
The trail heads into the woods from Nels Bight to the east half of Experiment Bight.Guise Bay
From the east half of Experiment Bight we left the sand to the woods for a kilometer to pop out on Guise Bay. Guise was my favourite scenes of the trip. I could have stayed there the entire time, just relaxed and taken in the view.
The sand was a more golden colour than Nels and the water more blue. It looked tropical when the sun hit it right. There were 3 groups camped there but far fewer than Nels. Guise is another 3 km farther along the trail from Nels. It’s a full 20km in from the parking lot. I was happy to stop at Nels when we did. Taking all your gear 3km further to camp at Guise is just more work. It might be worth it if like it better and planned to spend a few days there.
After Guise Bay, the trail heads back into the woods and gains the elevation up to the lighthouse. There is just over 2km of trail from Guise up to the lighthouse. 30 minutes if you’re hiking about 4km/hour. With breaks we were moving about 3km/hour.
Relics of old logging in the area, springboard holes in one of the trees made an art project for someone coming through. The seashells around the stones to add depth to the eyes. I admired such attention to detail. Obviously I’m not an artist.
Most of the trail from Guise to the lighthouse was some type of old road. Some was just logs placed across the road and others were planks parallel to the trail.
The odd thing in this scene was the old hydro (telegraph line?) pole.
Cape Scott Lighthouse
We trudged up the dirt road to the Cape Scott lighthouse. There was a small that lead down to the water on the right as we were coming up the road. We later learned that this lead down to the fuel tanks previous location. Thanks to a fuel spill years ago, regulations changed and they had to have their fuel further away from the water.
Obviously I needed to have a picture of my friend Bryn taking a photo on every trip. I don’t think there’s a photo on this blog where you can actually see his face. We’ll just call him the cameraman.
We couldn’t see a thing through the clouds and the fog. I’ll be back one day to enjoy that view for sure. We can’t even see the water that surrounds the point we’re on. We can just see up to the lighthouse and that’s about it. The lighthouse keepers have brought a little puppy named Hurricane. His black and white fluffiness was vibrating with excitement with visitors. They didn’t let him out to play thought, sometimes he runs away.
Satisfied (or not?) we won’t see any water from the lighthouse, we turned to head back to base. One of the buildings had treated rainwater for drinking from a tap. We filled up our water and wandered back down the dirt road. Back into the lush green forest, onto board walks and old roads.
Some of the boardwalks are recent and made for hikers to manage the mud.
Other boards are remnants of old roads.
Back to Guise Bay
The sand dunes between Guise Bay and Experiment Bight was the most interesting place I saw on the trip. Vancouver Island doesn’t have much for big sand dunes. I’ve only seen them in New Zealand and on the coast of Oregon. Such an interesting view to pop out of thick coastal forest and see giant sand dunes from bay to bay across the cape. The top of the dunes don’t see much sea water, leaving them covered in tall grass. I thought I might see a little dinosaur running through the grass beside me.
Part of the dunes get washed away in the winter with storms as they come pounding down on Experiment Bight from the north. Guise Bay is much more sheltered and protected. The thick grass stops at the edges where the waves have eroded a path through. Small patches have sprouted in the sand at the bottom. I’m sure they wash away every season during the storms.
Experiment Bight has a much more desolate feel to it than Guise Bay. It’s just on the other side of the sand dune but it could have been on the moon. Not nearly as inviting. It would be quite the place for storm watching if you were (un)fortunate enough to be here when the wind and seas picked up. You might need the white hard hat sitting on the orange buoy below.
Each little trail section had it’s own own personality. Some looked like they were from their own planet. Others, like this one full of ferns, salal and salmon berries, could be from anywhere on Vancouver Island. Hiking just a few kilometers along the trail, you’d see all sorts of scenery.Nels Bight
A little over 12km there and back and we were home on Nels Bight. The weather brightened up for us after we got close to camp. Nice of the weather to break just as we get back to camp.
With the nice weather coming in, I spent the evening wandering the beach near camp. With all the tales of crazy things washing up on the beaches, I expected to find more garbage and treasures there. There was a small amount but not nearly what I’d thought. Nels is a busier beach with the ranger cabin on it so it must be regularly cleaned by rangers and beachcombers. Would the less frequented beaches have the more interesting garbage still lingering?
Looking back towards Experiment Bight from Nels.
Getting a little suntan in.
What else do you do with flotsam and jetsam sitting around? I’m not sure if he’s scary or inviting. We got many comments from passers-by.
Sun setting on our second day in the park. My legs and feet were toast from hiking but all I can do is smile looking out over the point to the sunset. There’s nothing better than relaxing with friends on a beautiful beach kilometers from any city in the warm evening.